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If you go too high then the motor will not return to your target idle when you come off the throttle. to. If you feel you have no other choice but to run a Sniper and stand-alone controller then you can give this a try. But if the idle is a little bit higher then it doesn't have to jump quite as much in response to the load, and tends to react a little bit more smoothly. I've helped folks work through a number of challenges with their Sniper EFI System installations. I'm running a 408 sbc. Wish I had bought my sniper from you, but unfortunately didnt. You mentioned going from 13.5 to 14.2 but you'd want to go in the other direction--maybe to 13.2. Holly offers a very nice Analog-Style Fuel Pressure Gauge that is another option. Running new vintage air system so the is only a single power wire to compressor thats why I asked if I needed to run input wire to ac relay or if iac would pick it up fast enough(which its not). Start by doing the fastest start you can that doesn't bog. Robust, feature-rich multi-port EFI systems offer easy plug-and-play late-model V8 engine swaps. I'm thinking it could be the fuel pressure--- since I have a new Spectra EFI tank and there's been some reports of the interior coating coming off and gumming up the pump however the sniper display DOES NOT show fuel pressure.the Sniper DOES measure fuel pressure on its own - i've confirmed that with holley techs as they told me to purchase the fuel pressure gauge that can just hook up to the 1 wire gauge harness from the Sniper. Idle quality is great, RPM is good, sometimes IAC is now between 2 and 5 exactly where it should be. I installed my Sniper and the engine fired up great. I appreciate everything you are saying. No power at the programmer and no fuel pump running. You're going to have to get this fixed or it's going to cause even more problems than the high idle. holley efi. Hello. The on board fuel pressure regulator in the Sniper throttle body has a small filter clipped over one end . This was an issue in the earliest version of the Sniper firmware. You'll be amazed at how much of this just "goes away" when you drive it enough. The team at Holley has designed the perfect solution for your problems. If you have any questions about the car/setup let me know. That is the IAC hold position. When stopping, the brakes are unable to overcome the engine so I go to neutral just to stop fighting the engine. Also, I was seriously rich at idleso rich it hurt your eyes. That is the default "Clear Flood" TPS setting and turns all fuel off until the engine cranks. Even at 0% it's sucking a bunch of air through the IAC port. I would start by removing the progressive linkage. Since the load is more of a wave that increases the most initially and then decreases again, the ECU is doing really well to get the idle under control in only two or three over/under shots as you describe.You don't mention if you have your Sniper ECU controlling timing. Um, no. Add To Cart. Capability Range: Advanced Edit I just ordered a Holley return / regulator and cap for the sniper ouletOh, this is not an OEM Master Kit, but the fuel pump should be the same EFI Pro shipped this kit. Please help. After much diagnosis, I ended up replacing the intake manifold gaskets. Hello Chris. When running it will only stay in closed loop and learn at idle. Did your process to adjust idle to 860. With the vehicle in neutral, adjust the idle screw until the IAC Position reads between 2 and 10%. The team at EFI pro are some of the best I have ever dealt with when coming to ordering parts or having the knowledge to answer any question you may have. Target AFR at idle is 13.8%. After 50 on the throttle position I'm not sure if the whistle goes away or you just can't here it anymore. I was looking at a data log from my truck earlier this week and noted that at idle my IAC was zero. All times are GMT-6. As soon as I got the new one installed and wiredit fired right up and did everything it was suppose to do with no issues. If the TPS is even just 2%, the IAC will go to the hold position (normally 30%) and will not change until the TPS goes back below 2%.If you create a datalog you will be better able to confirm if something is not working correctly. The weather in Ct has finally improved and I have put about 60 miles on the car with the Sniper system. Simply turn the idle speed screw on the linkage in until the throttle plates open enough for the idle to increase. I haven't driven it for the 30-40 minutes like the several times it idled at 2200. Reply Quote. The IAC reads 36 when at idle fully warmed up. Its timed to 36 degrees. Bolt-on carburetor style EFI for your classic car or truck. You could go either way.. Properly configured, the Sniper does a fantastic job of responding to the transition from Park to Drive. I never had a problem with this. It reads 0 at idle and when I accelerate it goes up to 30 and makes a loud sucking sound that seems to be holding the car back. Worst case you'll have a spare on hand, and if the TPS is faulty you will have solved the mystery. The first thing I'd do is check your fuel pressure with a gauge like this. I know its not flooded because I can pour a little gas in the throttle body and play with the accelerator and it will start and run fine. check out the. Check the Distributor Tach Connection to the EFI. Fought a high idle issue until I changed your idle speed curve fix along with dropping the IAC hold to 10%. If you have a bellcrank in your throttle linkage, ensure that the linkage is not engaging the bellcrank at an angle greater than 45 degrees at either end of the throw. Now, in my lifetime of experience with Holley ECU's that seems unlikely, but this guy sounded really sharp and had nothing to gain by convincing me of his dilemma. I figured out I was going the wrong direction when I was messing with the AFR programming. The whole topic of using the Sniper TPS for transmission control is one deserving of it's own article but I'll try to summarize a bit here. Sorry I didn't buy from you but I didn't know you had sold them. I would only play with this if you are finding that the other adjustments I suggested aren't working. Second, Holley just released over the weekend a video on how to implement a flex fuel sensor on their HP and Dominator ECU's. It only comes back to normal if I turn the engine off and on again. While this video is not meant for the Sniper EFI user it does provide a great overview of how your ethanol tuning adjustments must be made not only to the base fuel map but to the other configuration settings. Physially manipulating the linkage by hand will generally reveal if you have a sticking linkage that is preventing the TPS from returning from zero. I think in some of the Wizards with the handheld it doesn't use 57.5 as the default. that my Air/Fuel ration was 15:1 and I believe the target is 13.5:1. I will a, Scott has been very helpful and informative on guiding me through the purchasing and installation of my terminator X max system. I hope everyone enjoys this v. It will still change a bit with weather changes and when you get into infrequently-used sections of the map, but it's nothing to worry about.Regarding your idle speed immediately after start-up, that is determined by your Idle Parked Position. Maybe here will work better ?Sniper High Fuel PSIMy fuel psi is over 90 according to a brand new Auto Meter pro mechanical gauge tied in at the inlet to the Sniper using an AN adapter.I did the search function on here and found a similar high PSI issue that was fixed by clearing the return line.I have checked the return line hose for kinks and have removed it and blew thru it without any back pressure. The solution is to either lower the IAC hold position or increase the RPM above idle to start ramp (default is 1000 RPM). I'll have to check again tomorrow. The TPS will go red with a -15 and the AFR reads heating for a split second, then the idle kicks up to 2000RPM. 1. Covered the IAC port and set idle for 850 ish. Really appreciate the amount of learning im getting off here. Hang in there--you can do it. Or is there something else I should Ive also used another snap on light to confirm. If your mixture is too rich, it means there's too much fuel and not enough air. Now I have most of the bugs worked out it runs fine on the highway and around town it's just the idle. You will find a startup IAC percentage, an amount of time it holds at that percentage, and an amount of time it takes to idle down to the normal idle speed.By default, that number is 50% at normal operating temperature. Running the vacuum advance and of course I time it disconnected. I also noted that after some time, I could change those values as I saw fit. Please give this a try and let us know how it works! My problem with the sniper is the whistling and hard throttle pedal, I have a 700r tranny with a kick down cable. I can tell you that when things aren't working the way you wanted them to work that nothing beats knowing for-sure that you don't have a fuel supply problem. Installed sniper on 65 galaxie. I'll give the ". Drop the IAC parked position a bit at each temperature point and sort of back into the solution. My problem is low idle. Now that you've installed at least four Snipers it is going to be imperative that you learn to create and read datalogs. Give that a go and see if you don't make some progress! Cycling the power to the Sniper EFI would cure the problem, but not prevent it from coming back. So I have been driving it for about 400 miles now to numerous car shows and going out for cruises around town, trying to work some of the bugs out from everything we did this winter, but I notice when I take off from a stop sign or I cruise at a very low speed (say30 mph) it seems to be very boggy from no throttle to about 1/8th throttle. Hopefully replacing the pump again will resolve both issues. I think I figured some of my problems outI'll try to explain. the gas it catches itself and runs fine at slower speeds. This is actually more troubling than the sound you originally described. nothing stays steady. Contact whomever sold you your system or Holley directly. Two months fighting, cursing, not getting any help from Holley OR the forum, and a stupid little tin plate. Well, it turns out that with the current firmware this throws the IAC control into a bit of confusion. Incorrect connections will result in excessive resistance. Should it not do the opposite and do this on a cold start not warm. If more info is needed just ask. Hello Chris. The throttle position should be zero. During after-start idle, the idle will jump up to about 70% if the engine is cold, stay there about 4 seconds and then ramp down to the target idle speed for the current engine temperature. Ok, so I'm stumped! Ilike a few othersam having idle issues. It is simply for the benefit of the user. After this whole process, the car normally rotates without a very abrupt pedal. When the system is up and running the fuel pressure regulator inside the Sniper is making a rattling sound like a shaking a paint can. I will turn it up some more.Is this something that the ECU will learn? You can manually set it 57 after you run the Wizard if required. applies here because it is so important to realize that just because the IAC I emphasize "and" because the transmission controller manufacturer I used had the TPS ground terminated within the harness to the unit's main ground, which I find to be an unthinkable choice. I have now determined with the TPS the noise correlates with the opening of the secondary butterflies. Then why don't you Get On The List for Emails Straight From Our Pro? The data that you provide shows that you have at least two problems. That changes almost instantly as the engine revs.Since the learning algorithm requires some time exposure to a certain condition to make larger changes, that half-second makes only the smallest impact. I called support line he said he would have to look into it and call back. TPS% = 1 Make sure that your blanking level is _below_ that (being careful not to find yourself in the situation I describe above.) You are looking in the right area but I would probably not change the ROC blanking. Is there away to lean the idle out? That will happen occasionally, but less as time goes and on and the engine tune stabilizes. If the ECU has not spent some significant time learning yet, I'd recommend going back through the setup wizard and getting everything back to default. Bolt on 4150 Flange Carburetor Replacement. I've abbreviated it just a little bit but am appreciative of the added insight your comments provided.Off-idle performance can really be a challenge to self-learn but be assured that it can almost always be done. First thing I would check :-). :-). Thanks again for your insights! Solution #1 Put car in gear take off and the engine runs GREAT, no issues drive for 10minutes take car out of gear and engine idles correctly IAC between 2 and 5 Solution #2 Shutoff engine wait 30 seconds, turn key wait for display to come up, start engine. That will at least tell you something. My IAC was constantly at 100% at idle. Remember that as an EFI System Pro customer you have access to me at any time via my cell phone. I certainly appreciate your frustration (as well as your wife's!) I asked him a million questions and waited a long time to save up before purchasing the system and I have asked a lot of questions throughout the installation process. It works instantly for him.If that fixes your problem then you have a starting place. Thanks for any help. Bolt-on carburetor style EFI for your classic car or truck. Not that I noticed. Drives just fine but won't stay running unless I keep my foot on the gas. Suddenly, the engine accelerates alone, hears a great deal of air being sucked in, If your fuel pressure is at or about 60 PSI then visually inspect the barrels of the throttle body while having someone key on the Sniper. I did all of this before seeing the link you sent. is the fuel pressure. I've read that a spacer with 4 individual holes will solve this, but after I installed the progressive linkage the noise went away!! If you get into the practice of hearing all three of these sounds you will know if you have a problem even before you turn the key to crank. I used the Casper's Electronics 108103 splitter and carefully soldered my connections. No matter what do, my idle will not drop below 1350-1400 RPM when the engine warms. Great work, expert! I would gladly engage with you to solve this but ultimately you are going to need to go through whomever you purchased the system if a warranty return is in order. Then it changes and will not idle down, the handheld will display 0% IAC but you can see and feel that the IAC valve is more like 100%. Copyright 2022 Holley Performance Products, Inc. All right reserved. Any suggestions would be appreciated. When the lambda is 1.0, the displayed AFR is 14.7;1 REGARDLESS OF THE FUEL. Then your low idle problem will go away. In your case, however, I think you're close to getting it running. Sniper is still learning so it will continue to improve.Second, you may have heard the phrase, "correlation is not causation." That is the only way to fly. It does this with the engine off. This curve runs fom -40 degrees to 260 degrees, and gradually reduces the RPM along that range. )Since this isn't a consistent issue with all Snipers that tells me that different IAC settings tend to make the whistle. I installed Holley Sniper on three other Mavericks here in Brazil and the problem also exists.I did not make any changes to the parameters, only on Target AFR and the correction on the Idle Speed Curve chart. However, it is a good question so I thought I'd throw a few bits of info out there that I think might help.First, I believe that you may have a basic misunderstanding of what is being referred to sort of generically as AFR. Since a key cycle resets it to 0 and out to 30 or wherever If the TPS is 1% or below then the ECU is in control--2% or greater and the ECU thinks you've got it under control. Holley will take a look and tell you you have RFI and wish you good luck in finding it. Realize that when you drop the throttle, the engine enters a condition it will only see for a fraction of a second at a time. But now that Terminator X is available, I highly recommend going that route. They also recommended that their ground be spliced into the Sniper ground as close to the Sniper as possible. All times are GMT-6. I readjusted my IAC, now it's perfect. I'll bet you find that you can get it working great without any manual tuning. I am at the point where I almost insist that every Sniper EFI System owner purchase one of these. If I cruise down the road at lets say 60 mph and lay into it, she will take off and go. A question I cannot get a 100% answer on is can you piggy back off the Sniper EFI TPS for an electronic transmission? Sniper EFI Idle Tuning. Shut off the engine, ensure power to the Sniper is switched off. All times are GMT-6. Idle Tuning is a very important part of tuning any EFI system, especially our self-learning units like Sniper or Terminator X EFI. The fuel pump is mounted under rocker panel as low as possible and far away from any heat. Member List; Calendar; Forum; Holley EFI; Sniper EFI; If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. I have adjusted many settings and eventually mess it up and go back to the original map. You can find those settings here: Handheld: Tuning > Advanced > Advanced Idle > Rampdown, Software: Idle > IAC Settings > IAC Ramp Down. Even though the Sniper's fuel map is programmed to provide the correct amount of fuel via injectors spraying at 60 PSI, if the pressure is jacked up to 90 PSI the wideband sees that you are rich and faster than you can even detect it audibly lowers the duty cycle to inject the correct amount of fuel. = 2.34 For someone in your position, it will become an indispensable tool in your tool box. :-). Holley Sniper IAC Problem 04-26-2018, 11:30 AM Hello. When I drive with warm engine the IAC is at 30% when pushing gas, but shouldn't it be at 0%? It sounds a little different from mine, since it commands a 1300 or so increase intermittently. Two things to keep in mind as you do that. Throttle Tip-In puts you in a part of the fuel map where you stay for only milliseconds at a time. All in all, considering the system has been installed for less than 2 hours drive time we're BLOWN AWAY at how quickly it is "learning" this engine. I would not expect that an electric fan would create a noticeable load on the engine but if it did then you'd want to set the idle screw when the fan was not running. If you do find you have RFI issues then I've written an . % = 49 That is not the way to go. It runs perfectly fine other wise. I've made all the adjustments, all the settings, and the IAC issue is driving me crazy. Don't try to correct for the fuel. Am I missing something. I've changed all the One of the great features of Holley's Sniper is the ability to set your air/fuel ratio (AFR) where you want it. Except at idle. Nice to meet you. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. When this happens, it is impossible to convince the Sniper ECU to allow the RPM to drop below a set RPM--regardless of what the target idle speed setting is. I'd say make sure you buy from someone who can give you good after-purchase help (hint!) After manually making the sensor go through the full range a few times, I reinstalled it and now my TP will read anywhere from 0% to 4% when I key on. Please advise. First, check to make sure that the IAC is properly mounted and connected. The Sniper even has a feature that allows it to use the idle timing to control the idle speed. An undersized or partially plugged fuel filter is a classic EFI installation mistake. At that point, with 90 PSI of fuel, the ECU can't turn the duty cycle down low enough to idle properly. It's not that they (or any other manufacturer) is 100% perfect. Im thinking a faulty TPS. I'd recommend you contact Holley Tech support to get their input (1-866-464-6553; call early for the shortest wait times.) My issue is that when Im in stop and go traffic, I can let off the clutch and the engine revs and doesnt quite want to come back to idle. That is a good thing.I don't have a specific target RPM but always encourage automatic transmission users to bias the idle just a tiny bit higher than what you might otherwise. Chris, I recently installed my Sniper and have an intermittent idle problem. Took it for a lap around the block and came back. I would recommend that you call first thing in the morning, as they tend to get quite busy during the day and wait times can get long. But I think it is safe to say that you are now at a point were some manual tuning is a good idea. I have never seen issue when CTS is below 120 degrees. At some point you come upon problems that evade the easy answers and this is a good example. It could be that you've left a vacuum port unplugged, it could be that the throttle plates are misaligned (unlikely), it could be that your IAC is not closing properly. This only happens when coming to a stop and the idle is ramping down to the set idle RPM. When you key on, you will hear three distinct sounds: The ECU initializing the IAC, the fuel pump priming, and the injectors firing their prime shot. 680-700.I can't find any reason other than it looses where it is in the firmware with Copyright 2022 Holley Performance Products, Inc. All right reserved. We've already tried adjusting the Acceleration Enrichment chart in all ways, going up and down, RoC Blanking, everything, it has no effect. I also tried changing roc/map to 8 from 15 again no change at all.My ve table is smooth and tuned I even changed my AFR to 13.5 from 14.2 and no change at all. Part# 538-13. The fix? Data logs show no EMI/RFI. It wont fire up. Good luck! That's a nice change of pace--a low idle issue! When I turn it off and try to restart it just cranks. Sometimes an engine can produce enough vacuum to pull the secondaries open slightly. Thank you for this guide on setting IAC. idle at 1100 on the "stock" file it's better with street strip.The IAC counts will be at zero. I have installed my Sniper and the car runs great. I have tried your 10-step idle adjust and ive adjusted the idle curve. Thanks for sharing that, Jason--great info! Okay, try my method. In the context of the Sniper the AFR that is being displayed is the AFR of ethanol-free gasoline based on the lambda that is being read by the AFR. Let I have heard some guys complain that the idle is too good and they can't hear their cam anymore I'm kind of like that. If the solutions suggested above are not working then you need to review my article on IAC Testing Procedures. The manifold pressure increases with the throttle opening but the RPMs are still low. Ran 2 Holley carbs and an Edelbrock. Key, I believe, in this success is solid connections, resistance-free signal and ground paths, and solid RFI rejection. At 0% it shouldn't be sucking any air through that port, correct? If you can track specific engine coolant temperatures where the engine stumbles and dies that would be a good place to start. Be aware that there is a spring behind there and a diaphragm that you don't want to tear. If the minus 40 degree setting is lower than the setting to the right, simply move it up so that it looks something like this: The folks who have tried this have found that their idle speed control behaves much more as they expect. If it is not a problem with the Sniper EFI System itself then it could be an issue with some sort of harmonic involving the fuel pump. (If you do this you will need to reset the -40 degree setting mentioned at the top of this article. Comp. Camshaft is M-6250-B303 .480 lift intake & exhaust, duration at .050 is 224 degrees for intake & exhaust. If the IAC is zero, and if putting your finger over the IAC port doesn't lower it, then it's not the IAC circuit. The Super Sniper will allow you to monifor fuel pressure if you add an electronic sender but this is not an option with the standard Sniper. I followed the instructions and set the IAC to 2-9% when warm with idle at 850 RPM. Though it started and ran good, it was dumping fuel and would not lean out to AFR set points. 30 minutes later CTS reads 161, start engine Idle is jumping from 450 (almost stall) to 1500, IAC is jumping all over 10 90. It turns out that some of the Snipers are shipping with the minus 40-degree setting drastically lower, as shown in the following image.